渡口

2010年8月2日 | 标签:

渡口

昨天在一位老师的博客上看到她抄写的这首席慕容的诗,当即就决定把它读了,主要因为短,不怎么占用我的时间。

http://www.tudou.com/programs/view/v65akOri6zU/(混响)

http://www.tudou.com/programs/view/XICBYg9IGZw/(原声)

不经历江河,怎么见渡口。小时候的我,会经常光顾渡口,因为我的家和我的故乡被长江隔开。这段江面的路程是很让人难熬的,大概要5、6个小时,尤其是对没有耐心的孩子而言。船在江上,感觉慢悠悠的,而且那混浊的江水和漩涡,看的让人害怕,担心船沉了,我会被漩涡吸进去。实在坐不住,我就会偷偷跑到轮船底层的机舱,隔着宽宽的门栏看那一排排的柴油机在昏黄的灯光下工作,船上的灯泡都罩着个铁丝网,那声音可真是吵啊。

这只船还要经过东、西天门山才能到我家(当地人称之东、西梁山),每次经过的时侯,我都要趴在船舷上看,那被长江分隔开的东、西梁山在孩子的眼里极其雄伟,两山对江相望,靠江的那面,基本是峭壁,有时可以看到山羊在悬崖上突起的岩石处卧着,默默的注视着川流不息的长江,我当时想,它怎么爬上去的?这要多大胆子啊。李白那首“望天门山”就是描写此处景色的。隔江的两座天门山顶上各有一个非常高非常高的高压电线架,一排排高压线将电流输送过江,有一次我甚至看到一个电工挂在高压线上工作,脚下是滚滚长江,不知他害不害怕。

每次妻、儿听我绘声绘色地描述,总想乘船看看天门山的景色,只可惜,那船,早就停航啦。

最难忘的是一次在船上竟然看到了长江里现在很少见的江豚,当地人称之江猪(不是在骂那个姓J的,那时他还没上台),这些江豚成群的在波光粼粼的江面上间或跃起戏浪,那姿势和水族馆里的海豚游泳时一样,真是奇妙,平生只见过这一次。

关于渡口,还有一个很模糊的记忆。在我的家乡有一条几米宽的河,可我很小的时侯,河上还没有桥,但有个经营渡口的老船夫,老船夫有条很小的旧木船,老头住在北岸,南岸的人想过河,就在对岸吆喝一声,他就撑船过来载你。北岸的就不用吆喝了,反正都很方便,只给很少很少的钱。有次爸妈带我回故乡,到南岸的时侯,天色近黑,爸就在岸边喊着船夫的名字,叫什么叔,我忘了。那老船夫就从急忙那间破屋子钻出来,大声道:lingyun回来啦。然后撑船过来,船还没到岸,就隔着河面唠家常。“lingyun”是我父亲的名。

后来,小河上建了座水泥桥,船夫就没了生意,于是就在桥边开了个小卖部,天天人来人往,生意据说也不错。那座水泥桥叫渠桥。前几年回家,发现上面刻着建于1977年,说明我乘木船过河的时侯还不到3岁。


(从Google Earth上找到的故乡,看到河面上的那座桥了吗?在下面那个村庄,我度过了无忧无虑的童年时光)

顺便贴两张去年清明我在江边的渡口拍的照片,那天要去扫故乡父亲的墓,早上正好大雾,载汽车的渡轮不能启航,我就在江边逛。虽然在我们的南北各有两座长江大桥,但回故乡经桥绕的太远,会耽搁很多时间,乘渡船过江还是首选。此处江面很宽,渡船横过大约要半个小时。看到那滚滚江水,我还是害怕,这要是船在中间沉了,怎么办啊?


(这种泥质很细腻,闲时,我会到江边挖点儿,回家给儿子捏泥罐)

  1. 小师妹
    2010年8月3日05:27

    我从没亲眼见过最后一张图片上那样的土地,感觉会把鞋子掉进去拿不出来的,哈哈。挺好,父子俩一起玩泥巴。

  2. 民老头
    2010年8月3日08:42

    哇,老乡…
    东西梁山好像在芜湖,百度说天门山在当涂,究竟是哪里呢?
    我第一次过江,是在18年前,当时没有桥,轮渡竟然要差不多半小时,很吃惊;大客车也开到轮船上,也很吃惊.混黄的江水触目惊心,想起来一幅漫画: 长江长江,我是黄河! 黄河黄河,我也是黄河!

  3. YU
    2010年8月3日09:14

    天门好像在湖北。轮渡坐过的,江西。那时是一门课程结束,桥梁设计,跟老师专门去京九线九江长江大桥观摩。看你写老渡工,想起沈从文的《边城》。

  4. 不是我
    2010年8月3日15:44

    天哪!!东西梁山我去过很多次,15年前吧,那里江边的泥沙非常细腻,后来再去就不成样子了,气死人~

  5. yanhu
    2010年8月3日18:07

    @小师妹

    那是江堤,平时被水浸泡膨胀了,然后水退了,膨胀的江泥开始收缩,就变成这种样子了。久旱之后的土地也是这样的。

    走在上面确实要十分小心,不小心就会扭到脚踝的。

    泥,那是很好玩的东西。现在市场上也可以买到专用来捏玩的陶泥。

  6. yanhu
    2010年8月3日18:16

    @民老头

    老乡吗?

    我3岁至18岁期间在芜湖。当涂离芜湖很近,只有20多公里的距离,

    我查了一下

    天门山:在今安徽当涂西南长江两岸,东名博望山,西名梁山。两山夹江而立,形似天门,故得名。
    李白诗中的楚江指的就是流经湖北宜昌县至安徽芜湖一带的长江。

  7. yanhu
    2010年8月3日18:20

    @YU

    我查了一下,湖北张家界确实有个天门山,可不是我说的这个长江边的天门山。其实当地人根本也不称它为天门山,都叫东、西梁山。

    桥梁设计……理科生? ^_^

  8. yanhu
    2010年8月3日18:31

    @不是我

    为什么能去很多次呢?

    我离它很近,也只是远观。

    搜了一下,看起来泥沙确实细腻

    江边的泥沙>(点击)

  9. 风华
    2010年8月4日09:24

    好看。。也开始回忆了。。嗯。。芜湖,我上高二的时候,有个芜湖女孩给我写信。。后来联系不上了。。

  10. yanhu
    2010年8月4日11:06

    @风华

    好看吗?谢谢!

    我想真实、朴实的东西还是能触动人的

    哎,那个时侯还有写信交友这么一出,多么单纯的年代

    芜湖,并不是很好的地方,民风较差,但现在似乎好了一些,因为就业率高了。南方的女生还是很漂亮的

  11. YU
    2010年8月5日10:19

    嗯,作为一名学工程的理科生,给同样是理科生的你指出一个地理常识性错误。首先,张家界在湖南,不是湖北。天门作为一座城市,在湖北境内。真没想到,还有比我地理更差的。当然李白的那首诗,天门中断楚江开。。。,这里天门作为一座山,它在安徽芜湖境内,就是你照片上的地方。

  12. YU
    2010年8月5日10:26

    错诶,李白望天门山在安徽当涂,毕竟还是地理差。都是风华同学那俩字,把我给拐芜湖去了。

  13. 小师妹
    2010年8月5日11:02

    为啥是“楚江开”?楚国不是在湖北吗?

  14. yanhu
    2010年8月5日17:07

    @YU

    天门山还算归为芜湖吧?没错啊

    http://www.lrn.cn/travel/geotravel/200703/t20070319_41921.htm

    当涂和芜湖毗邻,当涂是李白的终老之地,青山秀水,鱼米之乡

  15. yanhu
    2010年8月5日17:09

    @小师妹

    批评你,读我的留言不仔细 :)

    我在给“民老头”留言中说了:“李白诗中的楚江指的就是流经湖北宜昌县至安徽芜湖一带的长江”

    古时,芜湖也属“楚国”范围

  16. 不是我
    2010年8月8日13:39

    YANHU老师:在芜湖,有一辆公交车可以到那里,下车之后再招一辆三轮车到江边,但从前我们都是骑自行车去的,那个时候才十几岁,山上还没有寺庙,江边的人也很少很少,很多美景现在都消失了,所以我相信古时候的东西梁山一定更美丽!

  17. yanhu
    2010年8月8日17:53

    @不是我

    谢谢指路

    从芜湖走,只能到东梁山

    西梁山在江对面,不知有无船横渡啊

    在我的记忆中,西梁山好像更雄伟一点

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